Ōkta, positioned within the Tributary Resort in McMinnville, Oregon, opened in July 2022. Fame got here early when The New York Occasions included it in its 2023 checklist of the 50 finest eating places in america. Michelin-starred Chef Matthew Lightner, the previous Portland, Oregon, Castagna chef who moved to New York Metropolis in 2011 to open Atera, which earned two Michelin stars, has returned to the Willamette Valley to showcase and have fun what the native area has to supply.
Ōkta Farm and Larder
On my latest go to to McMinnville, my daughter Brittney and I toured the ōkta farm and larder with Common Supervisor Christine Langelier, who mentioned, “Our philosophy on farming is regenerative practices, however it’s actually all about collaboration and communication with the restaurant and the resort.”
Chef Lightner oversees the planting and administration of the farm. He works with Christine, Chef Larry Nguyen within the larder, and farmer Saruh Wynes to develop the produce he needs to make use of in his dishes at ōkta. The collaboration begins within the nursery over the last weeks of December and into the primary weeks of January. Throughout this time, the group figures out what they are going to want within the subsequent six weeks, within the spring, summer time, and into the autumn.
Relying on the maturity charge of various seeds, some produce is able to harvest in a month or two. In distinction, different seeds have to be within the floor for much longer and won’t be prepared for harvest for a number of months however will then be out there for future menus.
Chef Lightner and the kitchen group are in fixed communication with Saruh, who has a powerful background as a bean farmer. She makes use of that information to develop varied kinds of produce, but additionally vegetation beans so as to add vitamins again into the terroir. These beans are harvested to make miso within the larder.
Christine mentioned, “The concept of our larder isn’t about preserving what goes dangerous. We decide issues within the area when they’re at their prime in order that they create the most effective flavors into the fermentation course of. As an example, our Jimmy Nardello peppers had been picked at their peak throughout the summer time, cured for all the fall, after which positioned on the winter menu. We frequently overproduce one thing within the backyard, and due to that overproduction, we’re capable of work with it within the larder and put one thing fantastic on the menu six months later.”
Having a restaurant farm permits Chef Lightner to serve what’s in season at that second. On the identical time, Chef Larry will get quite a lot of produce to protect, alter, and use to create new substances by utilizing historic and trendy fermentation strategies. His finish merchandise are used to taste meals for immediately’s menu and future dishes. Christine shared, “What Chef Larry creates is form of the salt and pepper of ōkta. We don’t use salt and pepper like most individuals do. We season the meals via preserved substances by taking the salinity from a product and utilizing it so as to add saltiness together with different extra flavors.”
Okta – A Eating Extravaganza
Brittney and I loved ōkta’s tasting menu, which consisted of six snack bites and ten programs paired with seven wines. One among our first dishes was a Rouge de Bordeaux crepe topped with mushrooms and Perigord truffle accompanied by a scrumptious cup of roasted rooster broth. The crepe was gentle, exhibited an uber mushroom taste, and solely took two bites to eat. These dishes had been paired with a tasty Champagne Colin, which has a wonderful pink colour from Pinot Noir grapes.
One among our favourite programs of the evening was a housemade tart shell crammed with a caramelized sunchoke puree and topped with spiny lobster tossed in a preserved Jimmy Nardello pepper aioli. This dish arrived paired with a glass of Alvinte, a Spanish Albarino that exhibited nice salinity, acidity, and brightness.
The mussels had been one other favourite; they had been the plumpest, best-textured mussels I’ve ever tasted. They had been cooked in their very own broth and served in a butter discount.
In between the completely different programs, we obtained a number of stunning playing cards with pictures and data paying homage to native farmers, vintners, and the native individuals.
The wild-caught flounder, served with watermelon, purple, and Spanish black radishes, sat on prime of fermented puffed buckwheat. The buckwheat added a improbable texture, and the scrumptious dish was paired with a glass of sake from Southern Japan. The gentle water on this space of Japan made the sake gentle and fairly with much less minerality.
The flippantly smoked sturgeon caviar on prime of savory kohlrabi custard, collard greens, and pine vinegar served with a polenta brioche roll and butter with sea salt was distinctive, and the crab and black cod dishes had been tasty and Instagram-worthy.
After extra scrumptious programs, a palate cleanser made from rhubarb and wild ginger cream with kombu arrived. It was candy and tart and oh-so-yummy.
My favourite dessert was the Bare Bear pumpkin ice cream with praline chocolate cake, barbequed parsnip milk, and crunchy pumpkin seeds. I gave this dish a ten+ score because it supplied a beautiful mixture of textures, was well-balanced, and properly salted.
Dinner at ōkta is a well-thought-out, stunning, tasty, and professionally executed expertise. As Christine defined, “The ethos behind our hospitality is that we wish to encompass you with it though you have no idea it’s coming. We wish to hit you with it from all sides.” The underlying philosophy behind the Tributary Resort, ōkta, and ōkta farm and larder is about sharing the native terroir—its bounty, historical past, spirit, and other people.
