The Met Gala. Paris Couture Week. Beyoncé. In simply the final couple of years, Gaurav Gupta’s identify has been talked about with every of those trending matters, and the designer’s swirling creations have taken over the crimson carpet. Within the style world, that makes you a legend. However whereas Gupta could sound like a whirlwind success, his story really started twenty years in the past.
Upon graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins school, the designer returned to India to launch his namesake style model in 2004. On the time, India wasn’t precisely fashion-forward: the nation’s style trade was dominated by conventional Indian clothes or primary types impressed by Western style. Gupta’s creations don’t match into both class. As an alternative, the designer attracts upon conceptual themes like mythology, spirituality and surrealism, and his ensuing attire are equal components dramatic and complicated.
As an alternative of counting on lavish gildings as many Indian designers are inclined to do, Gupta’s robes make an announcement with their sensual draping and sculpted silhouettes, achieved by a mix of conventional Indian craftsmanship and historic strategies utilized in European style, like corsetry.
Amongst his improvements is the sari-gown, a reinvention of the millennia-old Indian garment that Gupta has imbued with the convenience of a night robe. As an alternative of draping it round her physique and pleating the skirt herself, a girl sporting Gupta’s sari solely has to zip it up.
Unsurprisingly, Gupta’s saris are huge in India. The remainder of the world would know him for his signature swirl robes as a substitute. Gupta’s attire have famously been worn by Megan Thee Stallion on the 2022 Oscars; by Aishwarya Rai on the Cannes Movie Competition in 2022; by Cardi B on the 2023 Grammys; and most lately, by Mindy Kaling on the 2024 Met Gala. Past the crimson carpet, Gupta’s greatest celeb endorsement has come from Beyoncé: the singer wore a number of customized Gaurav Gupta ensembles, together with one of many aforementioned sari-gowns, throughout her Renaissance world tour final 12 months.
Whereas going viral is commonly seen as a short-lived success for style designers, Gupta additionally made his mark on style historical past. In 2023, he grew to become the second Indian designer ever to hitch the Paris Couture Week calendar. He was invited by the final word authority of the French style trade, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. In a way, Gupta lived as much as the title that was awarded to him at Rome’s style week, Altaroma, in 2003: the “Way forward for Couture”.
As an alternative of confining his style fantasy to the closed-off worlds of celeb and high fashion, Gupta has expanded his universe. He has launched a bridal line, a ready-to-wear line, and even menswear designs. Whereas nonetheless primarily based in New Delhi, Gupta additionally intends to carry his model to new markets just like the US, Europe and the Center East. This 12 months, the designer held a trunk present hosted by the Singaporean retailer Melange.
Beneath, we caught up with Gupta to be taught extra about how he’s revolutionising the Indian style trade, and what it’s like being a designer to the world’s greatest stars.
What drives your creativity?
GAURAV GUPTA (GG): I feel individuals who have the present to be inventive are naturally non secular folks. Creativity is likely one of the highest types of spirituality. My inspiration comes from the universe, the cosmos, meteors, nature, abstraction, artwork, surrealism, sculpture and artists.
Lots of your collections draw from mythology, surrealism and fantasy. Why do you assume fantasy is important to life?
GG: Many of the world is so mundane. Individuals are caught up in dealing with mundane life that they’re not capable of see the actual fantasy of what life and past have to supply. We don’t dwell within the surreal and our unconscious. Fantasy is alive on a regular basis, it’s simply that we’d like to have the ability to see it. I feel I used to be born to (present folks this), not simply as a designer but additionally as an individual.
How do you spotlight India’s wealthy heritage of expertise in your designs?
GG: I’ve 500 sensible artisans working with me, and we use very intensive Indian strategies.Our artisans have grow to be distinctive artisans in themselves, as a result of we have now taken Indian strategies, like zardozi, and made it not look Indian. These sorts of embroidery strategies are historic, however we do it in a futuristic method. Steel casting has been accomplished in India without end, however we’re making Kundalini sticks or a breastplate with it. Draping can be one thing very pure to me; it’s very free and fluid. And draping is Indian. India is likely one of the solely locations the place the nationwide costume, the sari, continues to be being worn after 1000’s of years. You don’t see that anyplace else on the earth. India continues to be an historic, dwelling “mindscape”. India is essential to me as a deeper, conceptual, non secular, tribal and ancestral area as properly.
How has the Indian style trade advanced in on a regular basis that you just’ve run your model?
GG: I’ve been a part of the change. I’m the change. Once I got here to India 20 years in the past, all the things was so conventional. It nonetheless fairly is in some methods, as a result of the Indian bridal market is the largest style market within the nation. Prepared-to-wear, particularly luxurious ready-to-wear, is evolving much more; a number of worldwide manufacturers are coming into India. India is the following huge luxurious market on the earth, however it’s a difficult market as a result of it’s nonetheless very Indian. It’s by no means going to grow to be like some other [market in fashion]; it’s all the time going to stay as India. It’s very native. It’s one thing completely different altogether.
You’ve dressed a few of the greatest stars in each the East and West. Is there a distinction in designing for each?
GG: I’m in the midst of the world—I’m Jap and Western, however on the similar time I don’t outline myself as both. I feel each side are on the lookout for innovation and celebration and freedom and infinity. And they’re able to resonate with these issues once they collaborate with us.
Beyoncé is clearly an enormous fan. How would you describe your collaboration along with her?
GG: It’s surreal and exhilarating, however it sort of feels pure as properly. Once I began showcasing in Paris, I felt like I used to be at dwelling. And after I’m doing these sorts of garments for Beyoncé—you understand, lots of people on-line even wrote that that is such a fantastic mixture. It feels just like the artwork is discovering its dwelling. I’m a fan of Beyoncé, in totality: how she is, the physique she has, the sunshine she emanates. She has that sense of going past and being infinite.
What did becoming a member of the Paris Couture Week calendar in 2023 imply to you?
GG: It’s a dream come true for any atelier on the earth. Paris Couture Week is the final word platform for style and artwork, and the approaching collectively of the 2. To showcase on the calendar with manufacturers which were round for a very long time may be very prestigious. I’m honoured to be making historical past.
You’ve run your style label for 20 years now. What are necessary qualities to have as a dressmaker to make sure longevity?
GG: A number of onerous work—there isn’t a shortcut to onerous work. Excessive perseverance. And a powerful perception in your self. Being unique is totally necessary; copying others or following traits received’t take you a great distance. And have a strong enterprise mannequin and the perfect folks working with you. Have a enterprise companion like my brother, who’s superb.
What’s subsequent within the pipeline to your model?
GG: I’m engaged on a number of collections proper now: India couture, Paris couture, ready-to-wear, the vacation assortment and menswear.
This story initially appeared within the June/July 2024 situation of GRAZIA Singapore and Grazia.Sg.
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