With out a platform to showcase a lot of the releases for the yr, Breguet (and all Swatch Group manufacturers) will be counted on to drop a shock (or just a few) on the world. Such was the case when releases on two new references within the Marine assortment landed in our inboxes in Could. These are the Marine Chronograph 5529 and Marine 9518, a time-only petite mannequin. We had already deliberate to showcase the Kind XX fashions with all-new bracelets however the Marine releases match higher with the general luxed-up world of advantageous watchmaking. So as soon as once more then, we enter the world of the sports activities class elevated timepiece. The elevation right here comes within the type of diamonds, which within the case of the chronograph mannequin is of the baguette selection. Thus this story zooms in on reference 5529, regardless that the time-only watch most likely has a clearer viewers in thoughts.
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Our rationale for contemplating the reference 5529 is that the dimensions of greater than 42mm right here, coupled with the distinctive Marine lugs, makes the chronograph put on a bit massive. Additionally, it’s a chronograph and this complication isn’t obtainable within the Reine de Naples vary (extra on this in a bit) whereas each Breguet household of watches has a time-only proposition. In actual fact, the chronograph is simply current within the Kind XX and Marine collections, and this model is powered by the self-winding calibre 582 QA. For some collectors, this calibre alone earns the Breguet Marine household quite a lot of credibility. After all, reference 5529 doesn’t lean very arduous into this, which is greater than acceptable for a watch at this worth level (see under).
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That worth is a results of the gold (white or purple) case, gold dial and the 98 baguette- minimize diamonds (90 on the bezel and eight on the dial). As we famous within the Spring subject, and certainly many occasions over the past 10 years, the baguette-cut signifies one thing particular to these within the know. Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca is actually within the know, and we predict that reference 5529 shall be a big entry into the sports activities class elevated watch development. On the business facet, girls who need a Breguet chronograph must look to the Marine assortment, somewhat than to the model’s top-selling vary. That appears fairly promising to us, provided that the Marine assortment is usually overshadowed by extra well-known ranges.
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None of this must be taken to imply that reference 9518 is an afterthought. At 33.8mm and cased in metal, the watch alerts that Breguet desires to construct an viewers for the Marine assortment. Be aware that the value of the watch is successfully “on software,” which suggests you’ll have to assess it for your self.
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Motion: Automated calibre 582 QA with chronograph and date; 48-hour energy reserve
Case: 42.3mm in white gold or purple gold (bezel and dial set with diamonds); waterproof
Strap: Rubber or leather-based
Worth: USD 186,400
This text first appeared on WOW’s Summer season 2024 subject.
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