Actions on the high of the watchmaking meals chain are intently noticed so it stunned precisely nobody when Julien Tornare was tapped for the highest job at TAG Heuer. His substitute as CEO at Zenith was certain to elicit simply as a lot curiosity, on condition that Tornare’s accomplishments there had left large boots to fill. For our half, we had been writing of the seemingly never-ending string of hits rising from the manufacture at Le Locle for years. Forward of Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG), we have been a bit of apprehensive about one in all our favorite manufacturers, and thus the narrative took a well-known flip.
Just about each story about Benoit de Clerck taking over the highest job at Zenith begins with references to his predecessors, and that is maybe unfair. As a consummate skilled and a real watch fanatic, there isn’t a have to marvel if de Clerck can slip into anybody’s footwear. He has his personal. After all, one doesn’t get the CEO position in an LVMH watch model by answering a need advert so de Clerck does have reasonably spectacular credentials, together with a lifetime spent within the watch commerce. The Belgian nationwide labored the Center East marketplace for TAG Heuer again in 1999 earlier than LVMH purchased the model. However so far as watchmaking goes, the story actually begins with IWC…
Assembly new faces on this enterprise at all times leads us down rabbit holes. What number of occasions did we cross de Clerck in some watch honest or different earlier than our first assembly at WWG this 12 months? Did we ever discover that well-known IWC on his wrist, maybe at a Ronan Keating live performance? Not like many executives on this commerce, de Clerck reportedly went all-in on the mechanical watch from an early age, with buddies ribbing him for his curiosity in “grandfather watches.”
This brings us again to that IWC Pilot’s Watch, which de Clerck purchased along with his personal cash as his first critical watch that then rapidly became a big story for the rising govt. It actually got here into its personal when he turned IWC’s President of North America within the late 2000s, after holding quite a lot of positions for Richemont globally. Whereas we heard about this story second-hand, you’ll be able to examine it in a fantastic piece by Worn & Wound’s Grifin Bartsch. We’ll follow-up on this after we subsequent talk about the Pilot line at Zenith, though we did have an amusing change about this assortment proper right here, regardless of it not figuring strongly within the lineup this 12 months.
Greater than any watch although, de Clerck’s status precedes him, particularly his final job at Richemont, the place he was Panerai’s Chief Business Officer. Our nameless sources inform us that he was very a lot a folks individual there, regardless of his personal protestations that he’s “numbers man.” Mainly, de Clerck is the type of govt who works particularly intently along with his personal staff, at all times taking note of their enter; he embodies the “no ego,” tradition that Tornare helped construct at Zenith. De Clerck confirms that he’s very a lot within the mould of the humane supervisor and will likely be persevering with to work in that spirit at Zenith. “I consider that my greatest spokespeople are those I work with. You understand, I by no means take no for a solution and by no means take sure for a solution both! So we problem one another quite a bit (on the firm and on the degree of the manager committee) to return as much as an agreeable (place on any given topic). After all, typically I’ve to make the choice and I’ve no drawback with that as a result of that’s what I’m there for!”
With out additional ado, right here is our dialog with Benoit de Clerck.
To start with, congratulations on changing into CEO! Inform us how you may have been getting on
Yeah, so it has been a bit greater than 100 days since (I joined Zenith as CEO). Earlier than I joined, I mentioned to myself, I’ll set that milestone of 100 days you recognize, which is a really American means (however I used to be not taking a look at what I may obtain in 100 days). As an alternative, I informed myself that I’ll strive to not decide however to soak up (all that has been completed at Zenith). I didn’t notice it was so troublesome to not voice your opinion for 100 days to be sincere with you!
But it surely was good to be in receiving mode, you recognize, extra in (the mode of) asking questions. I went to the manufacturing unit in Le Locle… I met watchmakers; I met the drivers. I met, you recognize, all of the engineers and the entire staff. (Outdoors of the model, as the brand new CEO) I met numerous journalists who’re specialists within the watch trade. I shared with them my fears, my issues. You understand, I attempted to grasp and I used to be very joyful as a result of after 100 days, I believe that I made the best alternative! Zenith is a good looking model. It’s a model with numerous historical past, numerous heritage and numerous authenticity, you recognize, numerous identification. As a watch connoisseur, or not less than for having labored for therefore lengthy within the commerce, I believed I knew Zenith. However once I received into Zenith (and found the manufacture and the individuals who labored there) I mentioned OMG! Oh my God, this isn’t the Zenith I believed. It’s even higher!
Up to now then, to reply your query exactly, so good. I’m very excited that issues are in good condition at Zenith, and the model appears to be in good condition to proceed with its success.
What did you uncover about Zenith that stunned you?
For instance, the Pilot factor (that we mentioned, in regards to the Pilot collection revealed final 12 months, and Zenith’s unique proper to make use of the phrase “Pilot” on the dial) I didn’t know. So that could be a typical instance
I knew, such as you, that Zenith was the creator of El Primero, the primary computerized chronograph calibre. I didn’t know that they’ve greater than 2,400 chronometry prizes. That’s loopy! So, I’ve a plethora or an inventory of issues that I found (about Zenith after becoming a member of), however these are for me, probably the most related issues. And the Pilot is unquestionably wonderful.
The burden of historical past at Zenith is unbelievable and this implies folks have completely different views or recollections of the model, relying on once they encountered it. We used to debate, with Jean-Claude Biver after which Julien Tornare (predecessors of de Clerck), how the problem is to get collectors to think about shopping for a Zenith watch reasonably than merely admiring its historical past and legacy from afar. How has this problem advanced?
So initially, Julien Tornare (whom I knew very nicely) did an excellent job and, you recognize, the way in which I have a look at it, Zenith was like Sleeping Magnificence and Julien managed to wake her up. However, she isn’t off the bed but, and that’s my job immediately. I’ve to get her to face up… to face on her personal ft. Later, one other position for me will likely be to get her strolling, however first, I’ve to get her to face. It’s a metaphor sure (forgive me for that), however it’s how I have a look at it.
I analysed completely all the information that I may. I’m numbers-driven. I like numbers, so I requested for the information on our clients and I noticed that within the final couple of years, they’re getting youthful. That is excellent news as a result of that implies that we are able to have a youthful technology (rising with us), however the collectors haven’t dropped off. So, whether or not when it comes to items offered or worth, the collector (section) has remained constant. The excellent news then is that that model has two robust pillars: the collectors and a youthful buyer base. We’re getting new clients which might be youthful and that’s a dream come true as a result of you recognize that the model is in good condition (now and within the close to time period).
Right this moment, we’re fortunate that we promote what we produce, roughly and you recognize, we don’t have an issue with stock. We’ve got numerous demand for very difficult watches, some bespoke as nicely, that we are able to do, and that is nice. The fantastic thing about Zenith immediately is that you just get numerous look ahead to the cash (at each degree of watchmaking). I’m satisfied that that is how we managed to get a youthful technology into the model. Once more, they’re not 12 or 14, you recognize, however of their first or second job…they’re nearer to their 30s. So, they’ve sufficient disposable revenue to purchase a very good high quality watch from a good model like Zenith. However (once more) it’s numerous watch in contrast with others…they will get one thing genuine with actual heritage and historical past.
On that notice, Zenith has had numerous success with extra conventional collections such because the Chronomaster and the Revival but additionally extra modern collections such because the Defy Skyline and the Defy Excessive. How do you handle the dichotomy between wanting again and searching ahead?
That is a part of the heritage of the model! Take the Defy Excessive and Revival Diver for instance. You understand the brand new Divers are impressed by the preliminary Defy that was launched in 1969, and that’s the reason we’ve the orange rim right here, to maintain the hyperlink precisely between the 2 watches. That 1969 watch was (waterproof) to 600 metres, which is sort of one thing for a watch from 55 years in the past; not numerous makers had such a (waterproof) watch. With the brand new Defy Diver, we improved it; we made it higher. It’s not the identical watch as a result of it retains the identical water-resistance however now in a titanium case with an exhibition caseback. In actual fact, we take a look at the watches to 750m simply to make sure (no one made watches in titanium again then, and definitely not with an exhibition caseback).
As you mentioned, the dive watch has been absent in our assortment for one thing like 20 years, and it was fairly wild again then however nonetheless a very good product as nicely. Now, the Defy Excessive and Revival Diver watches are far more like instruments for divers. You understand it comes with three straps; along with the titanium bracelet there’s additionally a rubber strap and really apparently, a strap product of recycled fishing nets. You understand, a strap constituted of one hundred pc recycled supplies. (With these choices) you’ll be able to put on the watch over your moist go well with and all that so that’s fairly cool.
Proper, and this brings me to one thing we’ve been asking model leaders not too long ago, which is about the way you succeed with a preferred mannequin that has to compete with the dominant participant in your section?
You understand, competitors is at all times good however what we offer right here is legitimacy in addition to, you recognize, the truth that we aren’t an enormous model. (Our clients) like the truth that we’re a really people-centric model (that’s not a faceless large). We’ve got numerous feelings within the firm, the place (I and administration) know each watchmaker, we all know each one that works there; it’s very private and that’s crucial. We may do far more when it comes to turnover, when it comes to the portions of watches we promote however that’s not the intention. This makes a giant distinction for folks within the know. And I’m a robust believer that Zenith is a watch model for folks within the know. By this I imply the connoisseurs and collectors but additionally new connoisseurs who don’t need to (have or put on) the identical watch as everybody else. That’s crucial (too).
On that notice, allow us to transfer on to the brand new Defy Skyline Chronograph. Why did you resolve that this assortment additionally wanted a chronograph, other than the truth that the chronograph defines the identification of Zenith?
As you say, the chronograph is who we’re. Imagine it or not, after we launched the Defy Skyline with three fingers, we had numerous requests (for a chronograph) from completely different markets, from collectors and connoisseurs… I can let you know that from day one (we met de Clerck on the second day of WWG) the curiosity and demand is past expectation…past expectation.
Good to know! However is there one thing – some watch – that you just want Zenith had however doesn’t?
So, with out divulging an excessive amount of, we’re celebrating subsequent 12 months our a hundred and sixtieth anniversary (as I discussed earlier) and it is a crucial milestone for us as a result of not numerous manufacturers have the posh to have a good time 160 years; not numerous manufacturers have the posh to have a good time 160 years in the identical location! I’m working very onerous on this milestone with the inventive staff. With the product staff, and with advertising and marketing. It’s a giant problem and it’s very thrilling; that is the place you will note what we’re doing.
This text is slated to seem in WOW’s Summer season 24 Concern, out quickly.
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