It might be uncharacteristic of Patek Philippe if it didn’t current a brand new calendar timepiece at Watches and Wonders Geneva, and true to type, the manufacture delivered and didn’t disappoint. Three new interpretations convey recent aptitude to the Geneva agency’s already complete repertoire of calendar watches, a lot to the delight of its avid followers. Starting from a creative, heirloom-worthy Grand Issues mannequin and a brand new iteration of the signature In-Line Perpetual Calendar to a smooth Annual Calendar designed for on a regular basis magnificence, every iteration caters uniquely to the varied tastes of watch fans.
Ref. 5160/500R: Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Uncommon Handcrafts
The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Uncommon Handcrafts timepiece, or Ref. 5160/500R is a dream come true for any hardcore connoisseur, who has a gentle spot for the perpetual calendar and unbelievable artisanship. Bringing beneficiant touches of ritz and flash, this new rose gold model replaces the understated white gold mannequin from 2016.
Whereas collectors covet the Officer’s-style case for its traditional design and historic significance, it’s additionally a bit of artwork that’s simple to fall in love with – particularly when you will have the precise watch in your palms. Like its predecessor, this mannequin options intricate hand-engraved volutes and foliage impressed by a historic pocket watch – inv. no. 427, to be precise – that’s on show on the Patek Philippe Museum. And if the gildings appear considerably acquainted, that’s as a result of they’re drawn from ornate decorations discovered on classic firearms. The flowery engravings cowl the dial centre, bezel, case center, crown, hinged cowl, lugs, fold-over clasp, and even the strap screws, making it a real masterpiece of expertise.
The silvery opaline gold dial, paired with blackened white gold Breguet numerals and pear-shaped palms, exudes an air of classic sophistication. Housed throughout the 38mm case, the brand new 26-330 S QR calibre replaces the earlier 324 S QR calibre, providing enhanced precision with its stop-seconds perform and improved winding system.
The perpetual calendar is displayed by way of apertures for the day, leap-year cycle, and month, with a retrograde date hand that performs a 270° sweep earlier than resetting every month. The moon-phase mechanism can be a marvel, sustaining accuracy with solely a one-day deviation each 122 years. This beautiful variant is topped off with a patinated brown alligator leather-based strap, secured by an identical hand-engraved fold-over clasp in rose gold.
Ref. 5236P-010: In-Line Perpetual Calendar
One other must-have for the intense collector is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010. This Grand Issues magnificence has been given a classic twist with an opaline rose-gilt dial, complemented by charcoal gray white gold hour markers and faceted baton-style palms.
First launched in 2021 with a blue dial, this mannequin stands out with its distinctive single aperture at 12 o’clock that shows the day, date, and month. Though clear and minimalist, attaining this in-line show was no small feat. Powered by the ultra-thin 31-260 PS QL calibre, it options an extra module of 118 elements that has earned three patents.
These cowl the modern association of 4 discs on the identical aircraft, together with two for the date to boost each readability and mechanical reliability. The mini rotor’s winding energy has additionally been enhanced, because of the usage of platinum, a metallic with the next density than the 22k gold usually employed for Patek Philippe mini rotors. The mannequin additionally options spherical apertures for the leap-year cycle and day/night time indication, in addition to a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock with moon phases.
Measuring 41.3mm in diameter and simply 11.07mm slim, the elegant platinum case is solely hand-polished and set with a single diamond at 6 o’clock (a signature for Patek Philippe watches with platinum circumstances). Its sloping lugs improve the visible enchantment by extending the smooth traces of the bevelled bezel. Completed with a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather-based strap and a platinum fold-over clasp, the Ref. 5236P-010 joins the present assortment alongside the Ref. 5236P-001 with a blue dial.
Ref. 5396G-017: Annual Calendar with Moon Phases
Lastly, Patek Philippe presents the refreshed model of the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G in white gold, that includes a placing sunburst blue dial with a black-gradient rim accentuated by 12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers. First launched in 2006, the lads’s watch has been obtainable in white gold (Ref. 5396G-011), and rose gold (Ref. 5396R-011) with silvery opaline dials since 2010. In 2017, a rose gold model adorned with a sunburst blue dial and baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (Ref. 5396R-015) was offered.
Launched by Patek Philippe in 1996, the patented Annual Calendar prompted a fairly stir among the many watch neighborhood, even spawning an all-new “helpful” issues class. You see, this ground-breaking mechanism bridged the hole between easy calendars, which require changes 5 instances a yr, and perpetual calendars, which want no adjustment however are priced as typical for grand complicatons. The ingenious Annual Calendar wants resetting simply yearly, on the finish of February, making the watch extra accessible and extremely simple to make use of.
The brand-new 5396G-017 incorporates a double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock, date aperture at 6 o’clock, and a 24-hour subdial incorporating a moon-phase show. The elegant format is complemented by faceted white gold Dauphine palms and a slender central second hand. The richly colored dial is matched by a shiny navy-blue alligator leather-based strap with a white gold fold-over clasp.
On the coronary heart of the 38.5mm timepiece, the 324 S QA LU 24H calibre has been upgraded to the 26-330 S QA LU 24H calibre, which was derived from the self-winding 26-330 base calibre launched in 2019. This new motion features a stop-seconds perform and different technical enhancements. The Annual Calendar mechanism additionally boasts a exact moon-phase show, with a deviation of sooner or later each 122 years.
The 24-hour indication simplifies calendar setting, whereas the correctors on the case flanks make it simple to regulate the Annual Calendar and moon-phase shows. The motion’s refined finishes, together with chamfered and polished edges and an engraved Calatrava cross on the central rotor, are seen by way of a clear sapphire crystal caseback. The brand new Ref. 5396G-017 joins the gathering alongside the rose gold Ref. 5396R-011, whereas the sooner Refs. 5396G-011 and 5396R-015 will likely be discontinued.
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